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iONik

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Posts posted by iONik


  1. Password crackers will work, but they all require as much processor speed as possible and time. Try finding the program somewhere else and DL it with a PW. It will be faster to redownload with a known PW that try and crack an unknown PW. Just the way it is, really.


  2. It is from my practical experience that no recovery software can backup/restore u a file 100%. it may recover the file but without the content sometime and there is a little chance to get the file intact.

     

    Hope system restore may be bless for u

     

    :cwrocks:

     

    Thus, the less you use the computer you lost your files from, the closer you will get to a 100% perfect recovery. ...and 100% is possible.


  3. To backup the file, just save it again somewhere else (SAVE AS - file-bu.xl) like a thumb drive or different hard drive.

     

    Here is software that is specific for recovering excel files...

    http://www.support.com/data-recovery/files/excel
    

     

     

    @ palestinems

    iCare Data Recovery Standard looks like a cheap version of RecoverMyFiles which can be found here:

    http://www.recovermyfiles.com/"]
    

     

    There's not really any better than the free one I recommended. Aside from all the additional features, they both will be able to list files,

    recoverable or not.

    • Like 1

  4. Sorry Mate, your TUT does not follow any rational with respect to the battery chemistry for laptop batteries. Also: when the battery is fully charged, the

    computer reduces the current so that the battery pack stays just fully charged, enought to keep the battery from natural discharge.

     

    You also say that deep discharge is not good for batteries (and I agree), so why does your rejuvination process involve up to three deep discharges?


  5. Sounds to me that your probably building a very "crash-prone" computer, attempting to reinstall programs over old ones and such.

     

    I'd like to count the # of BSOD's you'll be getting after or during all this updating.

     

    P.S. 63 MS updates is nothing. You will probably find a bit later that you have another 63, then another... You never get them all on the first try.


  6. How did you delete the file? Did you hilight the file in explorer and select delete?, It could be in the recycle bin. If you deleted it via the Excel program it may be more difficult to recover.

     

    1) Do your best not to use the computer you have deleted the file from.

    2) From another computer download the program "Restoration" from the following site:

    http://www.snapfiles.com/get/restoration.html
    

    - save the file to a thumb drive and run the .exe there. It will extract 4 files to a foldr called Restoration.

    3) Use the thumb drive in the computer with the lost file. Go into the restoration folder on the thumb drive and double-click restoration.exe

    4) Make sure the drive leter is set for the drive where the lost file was

    5) Press Search deleted files

    6) When complete press the "Modified" column headder so that the most recently deleted items are at the top of the list.

    7) Search the list for the files you want to recover

    8) If you find them, save them to the thumb drive first, then when done, you can bring them back to where you want.

     

    Good Luck


  7. A tripod or monopod are the first options, but reading the camera manual is still high on the priority list. To reduce blured imaged you would want to set the camera on a shutter priority mode, not Aperature, or even Full Automatic mode. The faster the shutter speed, the less blur you will have. If the camera is able to set the ISO, setting this higher will also help reduce the bluring as the shutter speed can be incread even more.

     

    Depressing the shutter button at the end of an exhail, as others have suggested can also have beneficial results.

     

    Also: Check out this article.

    http://nyfalls.com/article-photographing-3.html

    • Like 1

  8. If you could exclude as much writing to the SSD Drive as possible, such as where file are saved from programs, My Doccuments folder, and all peronal data, keep it on he non-SSD drive, then the SSD drive will last longer. Using the SSD Drive for writing data to continuously will kill it quickly.


  9. I'm looking for some "real software" not the crap Apple want to require you to use to operate a somple MP player. In other words I do not want to install some 300MB buggy program on my PC just to copy MP's back and forth from the iPod Nano 4GB.

     

    Any suggestions.

     

    Also looking for the drivers for the device alone, apart from the 300MB iTunes install.

     

     

     

    Thanks


  10. Info  CP Moderator Message: if all else fails, get an UnInstaller. I use Your Uninstaller with great results. it will find *ALL* files associated with the app and get rid of them, especially dll's and registry files.

    you can get it here:

    http://www.cyberwarez.info/forum/topic/109157-your-uninstaller-pro-7420121/page__hl__uninstaller__fromsearch__1
    

     

    Not sure YourUninstaller will find it either, but it may be worth trying. The program is designed to be stealth so it may give the program a run for its money. System Restore, on the other hand, would be the best bet.


  11. This is why the defrag worked. The C (os) drive was not reformatted. Only the D drive.

     

    Glad we could help D

     

    Indeed.... I read through the posts too fast! Not sure he would want to format D: Drive. I have rerely had noticeable speed gains from defragging, but I guess it depends on how a user uses his/her computer. I tend to place my pagefile.sys file on a different partition or drive and do that as well for much of my software installations too. The OS runs cleaner and faster this way.

    • Like 1

  12. shovanadhikary,

    Your dell documents should give you an idea but for best results you should actually unplug the laptop from the power supply once it is fully charged. Then once it gets to approx 10 % battery life then plug back in and recharge to full charge then repeat process. It is harder on a battery when you leave the laptop plugged in to power supply all the time and don't let the battery discharge and then recharge. If you plan on leaving the laptop plugged in all the time then either remove the battery once fully charged or see if your dell has a small program that allows the battery to stop charging while it is plugged in. It would do this untill next reboot. If you right click on the battery meter it should give you this option to stop charging until next reboot.

    One more thing.....never discharge the battery completely. this is very hard on a battery also. These batterys are not like the older ones that had a memory.

     

    I will have to respectfully disagree with you here. Since the Lithium ion batteries do not have memory effects, at least none to worry about, then why would the op

    discharge the battery to 10% and recharge, and the repeat the process. The internal charging circuitry knows when the battery is charged and plugged in and will not continue to bulk charge the battery. Instead it will maintain a full state with a much smaller current that is designed to compensate for the normal losses by just sitting unused.

     

    Idealy, these batteries should be stored at 2/3 their capacity for their longest life, but that is not practical for a user who wishes to switch to battery only at a moments notice. He would have to wait for the batteries to charge before switching over to battery only.

     

    Keep the batteries in the laptop even when using your power supply.


  13. Some good advise thus far, but try to run antivirus and antimalware while in safe-mode. Sometimes these malware apps do a great job of hiding before such programs are run. In safe-mode you have a far greater chance of finding badness than when in normal windows mode.

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